F is for Findings

Welcome to part 2 of the letter F in my ABC of Jewellery. The series is a not-so-comprehensive guide to jewellery, materials and techniques I use, inspirations and design. The letter F proved to cover quite a lot, so I divided it into two posts. Part 1 covered Fluorite, Feldspar, Fan necklaces and Fairies. Part 2 introduces you to the group of craft supplies called Findings. It so happens, I have a small bank of previous posts to help me here.

examples of jewellery findings

Findings are those little components used in jewellery making to connect, secure, enhance or hang either the other components (beads/stones etc) or the entire piece. Examples include earring hooks, charms and clasps but they encompass a long list of other small supplies from headpins to crimps and are mostly made of metal. All good jewellery craft suppliers will sell a wide range and the larger online suppliers often have clear explanations for usage.

If you have some experience in wire work, you can make many findings yourself quite easily from craft wire. I took a findings master class at Dublin store, Beads & Bling a few years ago, but you can find tutorials online. I include links in this article to any relevant tutorials I have written to date myself.

         

The simplest of findings is the humble jump ring. This is a basic ring of wire that can be open or soldered shut. If you are not a jewellery maker you can use an open jump ring for repairs such as re-attaching a clasp if you know the correct technique to ensure the ring closes tightly. I previously posted this insider tip How to open Jump rings & Loops You don't have to own a pliers to do this if you have a strong tweezers.

If you do have the basic tools, you can even make your own jump rings with a hard craft wire, such as gauge .80mm (20ga) or 1mm (18ga) and, when adept, in super hard 1.25mm (16ga). I don't do this often, as I prefer to wire wrap links instead but I do make the odd ring to use as a hanging bail for a pendant.

For full instructions on making jump rings please refer to my recent post How to Make Jump Rings...

There are several ways to finish a beaded string but my method of choice is to use metal crimps and covers. I previously wrote a tutorial on How to Use Crimps  which may be of use to beginner beaders or of interest to those who have only ever used knotting techniques.

tiger eye pendant with spiral charm detail

Small metal charms can also be classified as findings. These are tiny pendant-like motifs that you can attach   onto  extender   chains,  charm  bracelets,  flat stones  and  to  other  findings  for decorative purposes.

A typically Irish symbol that only requires the same basic pliers set and wire to make is the Celtic spiral. For instructions please refer to my previous post How to Make Spiral Charm. 

It is preferable to hammer most of your handmade findings and charms to make them strong and rigid. Again, here's one I made earlier: How to Harden Charms and Findings with a Rubber Hammer. A chasing hammer (middle photo) can also add texture.

Other basic tools required if making your own findings are a set of metal files for softening sharp ends of wire and an agate burnisher for finishing the job by smoothing. A burnisher is also useful for polishing and for smoothing little nicks and bumps in metal.

F is also for Friday...so have a good one and a fun filled weekend!

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CLICK HERE FOR THE ABC SERIES SO FAR

or by letter:
A  B  C  (plus C for Crimping ) D E F

How To Open Jump Rings, Loops and Eyepins. Repairing Your Jewellery.

This tutorial is especially for those who cannot bead but would like to be able to do simple repairs on their own jewellery and for absolute beginners in jewellery making. 

jewellery findings

The most basic skill you need to learn is how to open a jump ring, wire loop and/or an eye pin properly. You can buy these basic findings in jewellery supply stores, craft shops and online. Once you know how to open and close them professionally you can put this skill to good use for a number of projects including re-attaching clasps etc. If you don't have jewellery pliers, strong tweezers will work for this basic repair job (not for making jewellery though!) You need two pairs- one to hold the finding steady.

I am afraid I only have two hands (please forgive me) thus limiting how much I can photograph to get the points across. A little imagination will be required.

First I will explain the WRONG WAY:

overstretched wire

It is tempting, and seems logical to just pull the sides of the ring or loop away from each other laterally. Pulling to the sides will overstretch the wire and damage the integrity of the loop. It is usually very hard to get it back together perfectly flush and tight or in the same shape again. It can ruin an evenly rounded loop in more pliable metals such as sterling silver or thinner gauges of wire.

jump ring that wont close fully

Even if you manage to keep it rounded, you will probably find that the edges just don't meet in the same way as before, rendering the loop or ring loose, weak and prone to opening. 

correctly opened jump ring

THE CORRECT WAY is quite simple, but maybe not very obvious to the beginner. With a pliers or strong tweezers in each hand, gently pull the two sides of the ring away from each other, one forward (towards you) and the other backwards so it looks something like the photo above.

opening a loop

 In the case of eyepins and loops on earring hooks, just tease the open side forwardly away from the rest of the wire. (Please imagine my hand or a second pliers holding the earring hook  in the photo above) No need too over-pull it. Open it just enough to get the link or charm on to it. I've opened the loop a tad further than I need for clarity in the photos.

 

This does not overstretch the wire so it wont have lost shape or integrity when you later squeeze it back to the original position. (Careful not to pull it too far though.)

Now link on whatever you need, e.g. the clasp that fell off, a charm or beaded dangle.

closing the loop

Close up the loop or jump ring by gently pressing it back down into place and squeezing with the pliers or tweezers. It shouldn't require much effort to get it as tight and perfect as before.

With a little practice you'll find you get a professional, reliable finish quickly and easily! Watch this space for future easy projects where you can put this skill to use.

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Click here to learn How to Make Jump Rings