F is for Findings

Welcome to part 2 of the letter F in my ABC of Jewellery. The series is a not-so-comprehensive guide to jewellery, materials and techniques I use, inspirations and design. The letter F proved to cover quite a lot, so I divided it into two posts. Part 1 covered Fluorite, Feldspar, Fan necklaces and Fairies. Part 2 introduces you to the group of craft supplies called Findings. It so happens, I have a small bank of previous posts to help me here.

examples of jewellery findings

Findings are those little components used in jewellery making to connect, secure, enhance or hang either the other components (beads/stones etc) or the entire piece. Examples include earring hooks, charms and clasps but they encompass a long list of other small supplies from headpins to crimps and are mostly made of metal. All good jewellery craft suppliers will sell a wide range and the larger online suppliers often have clear explanations for usage.

If you have some experience in wire work, you can make many findings yourself quite easily from craft wire. I took a findings master class at Dublin store, Beads & Bling a few years ago, but you can find tutorials online. I include links in this article to any relevant tutorials I have written to date myself.

         

The simplest of findings is the humble jump ring. This is a basic ring of wire that can be open or soldered shut. If you are not a jewellery maker you can use an open jump ring for repairs such as re-attaching a clasp if you know the correct technique to ensure the ring closes tightly. I previously posted this insider tip How to open Jump rings & Loops You don't have to own a pliers to do this if you have a strong tweezers.

If you do have the basic tools, you can even make your own jump rings with a hard craft wire, such as gauge .80mm (20ga) or 1mm (18ga) and, when adept, in super hard 1.25mm (16ga). I don't do this often, as I prefer to wire wrap links instead but I do make the odd ring to use as a hanging bail for a pendant.

For full instructions on making jump rings please refer to my recent post How to Make Jump Rings...

There are several ways to finish a beaded string but my method of choice is to use metal crimps and covers. I previously wrote a tutorial on How to Use Crimps  which may be of use to beginner beaders or of interest to those who have only ever used knotting techniques.

tiger eye pendant with spiral charm detail

Small metal charms can also be classified as findings. These are tiny pendant-like motifs that you can attach   onto  extender   chains,  charm  bracelets,  flat stones  and  to  other  findings  for decorative purposes.

A typically Irish symbol that only requires the same basic pliers set and wire to make is the Celtic spiral. For instructions please refer to my previous post How to Make Spiral Charm. 

It is preferable to hammer most of your handmade findings and charms to make them strong and rigid. Again, here's one I made earlier: How to Harden Charms and Findings with a Rubber Hammer. A chasing hammer (middle photo) can also add texture.

Other basic tools required if making your own findings are a set of metal files for softening sharp ends of wire and an agate burnisher for finishing the job by smoothing. A burnisher is also useful for polishing and for smoothing little nicks and bumps in metal.

F is also for Friday...so have a good one and a fun filled weekend!

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CLICK HERE FOR THE ABC SERIES SO FAR

or by letter:
A  B  C  (plus C for Crimping ) D E F

How to Harden Silver Wire Charms and Findings with a Rubber Hammer

Thought I'd show a glimpse at some of the techniques I use in wire work, whilst also sharing a few tips with budding jewelry artists. This post looks at tempering (ie hardening) wire charms and findings, a technique I also sometimes apply to wrapping sea glass.

Simply working and shaping wire into a charm or finding automatically hardens it to a degree. However, the more pliable gauges (anything softer than 18g /1.0mm)  really require more serious tempering. There are a couple of ways to do this. These include working it with nylon jaws pliers for mild effect or using a tumbler , which is an item I covet as it also polishes the wire for you.  My favourite method is tapping with a rubber hammer.

Nylon jaws pliers for straightening, also has mild hardening effect

I would use nylon jaws pliers for straightening out wire. As a bonus, they harden it somewhat in the process. You can also harden finished charms and findings by squeezing them with this pliers but it is nowhere as effective as a rubber hammer.  Hammering lends good strength and rigidity to the metal. As a bonus, you may find that thwacking with a hammer is a good stress buster!!

You need an anvil or steel block and a hammer designed for the purpose. For tempering without flattening the wire, I use a standard double-ended rubber hammer. A very popular and not too expensive model comes with yellow and black ends. I  bought mine here in my local supplier, Beads & Bling in Dublin but you can get the same one anywhere online from good craft suppliers. It's beginning to look a little worn with all the work I've been giving it but it is so simple to use and works like magic in a matter of seconds on silver plate/similar as well as solid silver.

Place the charm or finding flat on the block. Give it a few firm taps with the yellow end. No need to put all your strength into it, but do apply short, sharp raps.

I'm afraid it's a little difficult to photograph this using only one hand, but to add a little extra pressure and control, hold the hammer in your fist, with your forefinger extended along the handle and pointing to the head as shown.  (Hmm, due to a spot of dry skin lately,  my finger also looks as old and battered as the hammer today but how and ever, let's carry on....)

Follow up with a few hard taps with the black end.. Voila, your wire work is several times harder and less likely to bend out of shape.

It is not advisable to tap where wires cross over each other as this can have the opposite effect,  creating a weak point in the work. I would use the hammer all the way round the curve on this earring hook, except at the start of the loop where the wires cross.

Wire-wrapped sea pottery pendant

I also use the hammer at certain points in the middle of wire-wrapping sea glass. It takes quite a bit of practice to learn when and where exactly to do this as you don't want to harden the wire to such a point that it wont bend the way you want it to go. For example, when making this sea pottery pendant, I formed the swirl in the middle of a length of wire, hammered only the swirl to temper it rigid. After slipping the swirl over the bottom of the shard, I proceeding with wrapping from either side and up to create the bail. After the usual bends and tweaks to tighten the wrapping to secure the piece, I hammered just the bail for hanging.

I  use a chasing hammer when I want to flatten and spread the wire. Both hands are required to demonstrate the special technique for spreading the wire flat, as I hold it down with one hand and use repetitive fast strikes at an angle with the other hand . This one will have to wait for another blog post so...

The round end of the chasing hammer is good for creating or enhancing a dimpled texture, but that too, is a post for another day...

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To see how to open jump rings the correct way, CLICK HERE. (Also of interest for non-jewelry artists for simple repair works!)

Click HERE for general handy tips from tea-dying lace to making herby ice cubes.