H is for Howlite, Hematite & Headpin. ABC of Jewellery

Heyho, we've reached letter H in my ABC of Jewellery. This is a not-so-comprehensive guide to jewellery materials and techniques I use as well as inspirations and design styles.  H is for Howlite, Hematite and Headpin .

 

Natural howlite                             Dyed, 'turquoise' howlite

Howlite is a porous, fairly matte, opaque stone. It is most often dyed artificially and re-named with a marketing term such as 'turquoise howlite,' 'pink turquoise,' 'howlite jasper' 'lapis jade' and all sorts of poetic names. In its natural state it is usually grey or white and indeed, is also often confused with 'white turquoise,' a much rarer mineral. The fact is, howlite is not turquoise. It's not jasper, jade or any other stone. It is what it is, a borate mineral that doesn't take a great polish, but can be dyed easily in beautiful colours and is perfect for fun and affordable jewellery.

Metaphysically it is the stone associated with awareness and wisdom. Natural healers believe howlite brings calm and relaxation to a troubled or anxious mind, relieves pain and helps with insomnia.

magnetised hematite beads

Hematite is ferric oxide, or in plane English, a form of iron ore. It is a shiny, charcoal grey or black. In its raw state it often appears red due to rust. The name 'hematite' comes from the Latin 'blood stone,' in reference to the redness. Sometimes the beads can be a bit heavy and not a good choice for earrings.

double stranded pearl choker with hematite focal (own necklace)

Hematite is often magnetised, which can be tricky to work with, or very useful in certain designs. When beading the double-stranded pearl necklace above, I placed a magnetic hematite bead at the centre of both strands to keep them neatly together and help the choker sit well. I am working on variations of the design at the moment.

Magnetic hematatite beads keep the strands from separating

As it is a raw form of iron, natural healers  use its energies for treating blood disorders. It it also the stone associated with grounding, calming and and clarity of thought.

Headpins

Headpins are a type of finding frequently used in jewellery making. They are basically a long pin with a 'stopper' on the end used for wiring up earrings, pendants etc. They resemble straight pins used in sewing but come in a wide range of sizes and metals. The ends are most often flat, but you can find more decorative ones with a bead on the end, or indeed you can make your own out of wire, hammering the end. Alternatively you can form a spiral at the end to keep the bead or stone from slipping off. You will need to harden the spiral, for example, with a rubber hammer.

work in progress, beads threaded on headpins &1 finished piece

H is also for Handy Hints and How Tos, which you will frequently find on my blog. Some are tutorials, some are more general tips.

I could have sworn H was for something else important?  Woops, I forgot my Etsy shop, Handmade by Amo'r!!  Why choose handmade? Because of the quality, uniqueness and attention to detail.

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Previous posts in this series

A  B  C  (plus C for Crimping ) D E F  (plus F for Findings) G1 and G2

All of this series: ABC

How to make a Wire Spiral Charm

This is the second article showing a glimpse at how I work. Last Friday I showed how to temper or harden wire with a rubber hammer.  Today I'd like to show how to make a wire spiral charm.

modern Celtic street art, Dublin city

Spirals, triskeles and concentric circles are among the oldest design motifs known to us. They are found in ancient artwork in diverse corners of the world, and are intrinsically associated with the Celts in particular. Famously, they are a key feature seen at the megalithic tombs of Newgrange, Ireland. Over 5000 years old, the burial chambers predate the pyramids of Egypt and Stonehenge in the UK.

Born and bred in Ireland and proud of our rich heritage, I like to use the spiral frequently in my jewelry. Making spiral charms is a simple pleasure and here is how it's done:

You need some jewelry wire or plated craft wire, a round nose pliers, a flat nose or chain nose pliers and side cutters. Unless using fairly hard wire (eg. 16g), I would usually also temper, or harden, the charm with a rubber hammer and steel block.

  

Grip the wire as close as you can get to the end using the tips of the round nose pliers. If the edge of the wire is jagged, nip it cleanly with the side cutter. In one smooth movement, roll the wire back on itself, towards your body to create the centre of the spiral. There are other techniques I use to format the centre, e.g., a looser, wider circle or tighter wire work with no centre hole at all, but this is an nice easy one to start with. I also chose to use a medium-sized centre loop here as I am later going to widen and bevel the charm with a special finish.

  

Gently but firmly grip the loop you've created with the chain nose or flat nose pliers so that half of the loop is in the jaws and the wire is pointing up and out as shown. Careful not to squeeze too hard or you will squish or dent the wire.

  

With your free hand pull the wire down towards the floor in one smooth movement while still holding the loop in the same starter position. With practice you will do this quicker, enabling a cleaner curve. Shift the work around so the wire is again near the top and pull the wire down again to create the next section of curve. 

      

Repeat these two movements again until you have created a 3 'banded' spiral. Grip the loose end of the wire with the round nose pliers, close to the end of the jaws but not with the tips this time. In one smooth movement, curve the end back over itself towards the spiral using the curve of the jaws to guide the shape.

Temper (harden) the charm with a rubber hammer. (For instructions please click HERE)

    

I mentioned at the start that I was going to widen this charm and give it a special finish. I used the flat head of a chasing hammer to flatten and spread the wire.This action moved the centre loop closer to the next band for a cleaner look. I then bevelled the charm by tapping all the way around it using the ball head of the chasing hammer. 

This silver plated charm also got further texturing when I distressed it with a file to let some copper come through the silver. But that is an other episode in its journey, to be told another day....

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To see how to open jump rings the correct way, CLICK HERE. (Also of interest for non-jewelry artists for simple repair works!)

Click HERE for general handy tips from tea-dying lace to making herby ice cubes.

The Difference is in the Detail 4

Fiery gemstone necklace by Handmade by Amo'r

 It's that time again where I get to highlight some beautiful detail in the handwork by fellow Irish or Irish-based crafters and artists:

Handstitched card by BottleHeads Crafts.

I've been a fan of BottleHeads Craft since it opened on Etsy. When I give these hand-sewn cards to friends they appreciate that they've been given something a little special. They are great for popping vouchers or even scratch cards into too!

 Celtic armwarmers by Traban

It was hard to pick just one single item from Traban to show that when it comes to handmade, the difference really is in the detail.  You can feel the love of craft that goes into every item.

Red Apple Soap by Scent Cosmetics.

You'd be forgiven for thinking these apples by Scent Cosmetics were real. I can smell these glorious soaps from here. Look at the simulated bitemarks. Love it!

Well that was fun.. Hope you enjoyed it too. For more appreciation of the little details click HERE

New Designs in Connemara Marble Earrings

Here's a little glimpse at new, exciting designs in Connemara marble coming to my Etsy shop this month.

Today I listed the tear drops in the centre:

 Connemara marble earrings with Swarovski crystals 'Emerald Isle'

Want to know more about this rare, Irish gemstone? Click HERE for a little info on Connemara marble.

Update, 16/05/2012: just listed the Silver Celtic earrings: 'Mists of Time'

Have You Guessed Who's Coming to Visit?

A crafty visitor 

is coming to stay

On his journey so far

He's come a long way

From Ireland to the States

and now back again

He checks out our crafts

and sleeps in the den

 

Who is this being?

 You'll find a big clue

 on the arty blog of

 Cherry Blossom Tattoo

The Difference is in the Detail 3

details on back of button pendant by Handmade by Amo'r

 Another look at detail that you will only find in handmade items. Here are some pieces from fellow Irish and Irish-based crafters:

Spring will Spring hand knitted neck warmer by Purls of Colour

Brigitte of Purls of Colour always surprises with those little extra details in her beautifully knit pieces. Having previously purchased a gorgeous purple scarf from her, dotted with tiny seed beads, I can vouch for the quality of her stitching and materials.

Lady Titanic fabric cuff by Queen of Cuffs

I'm always mesmerised by the painstaking detail in handwork by Mary of Queen of Cuffs. This piece is a fine example of her stunning work.

 Fancy beaded necklace by Elettrarossa

Where would you get the patience of Eletrra of Elettrarossa for this fabulous beading?  It takes well thought-out design and then concentration to get the detail right when stringing either a pattern or abstract style.

Click HERE for more in this series focusing on detail

The Difference Is In The Detail II

 Daisy button pendant, 'Jinny'   by  Handmade by AMO'R

Last week I  blogged about the quality and detail found in handmade items: The difference is in the detail. The post spawned the idea of a regular spot for my blog, honing in on fab little details in work by fellow Irish crafters, artisans and artists.

A natural place for me to start is with work by talented friends, fellow Irish Etsy peeps who have shown me kindness and some of my super duper blog followers! (Oftentimes these are one and the same.)

 Kitty cat detail on child's tufted coat by HeliMG

 Oyster shell detail on wire-wrapped pendant by Balanced

Crystals and flowers on baby girl card by Good Moments

Button details on heart wreath by Quirky Apple

Researching items for this post was such fun and very inspiring.  I hope you enjoyed this close up of the wonderful little details you wont always get in mass produced goods.  

To be continued.......

A Snippet About Connemara Marble

The region of Connemara is an area of natural beauty in West Connaught, Ireland, namely in West County Galway. It is only here, in this unspoilt land that Connemara marble, described as our national gemstone, is found.

Connemara marble is an extremely rare and beautiful stone. It has been  mined and carved for centuries. This stunning green stone is over 600 million years old. (Here comes the science bit...) It is a metamorphic rock made up of recrystallised particles. (Ok, that is about as much science as you are going to get out of me but I did find this more technical info online.)

Love Spirals pendant, Connemara marble with Swarovski crystal

It is a hard and durable stone that can take a high polish. Considered to be the world's rarest and most exquisite, true green marble, it comes in a wide range of tones from pale, grey-sage to darkest forest green, with every shade of lime and leaf in between.  On occasion a yellow ochre specimen can be found. It is highly variegated so it is not unusual to find several contrasting hues  in a small piece of the gemstone.

OOAK Connemara marble pendant, Legends

Traditionally it has been used for making worry stones, rosary beads, jewellery, household items, ornaments, and so on.

It is also used as a durable, aesthetic building material not only in Ireland but around the globe. Famously it can be seen in the Chapel of St Patrick and the Saints of Ireland at Westminster Cathedral, London, for example. Here, in Dublin, the reception desk at Leinster House's new pavilion is topped with a fine example of sleek, Connemara marble.

Irish pub ornament or Christmas decoration, Connemara marble

When I started out beading and wire-wrapping, I never expected to be using Connemara marble among all the other exotic stones I found. I am so glad I discovered its unique beauty and am proud to use this and other, unusual, indigenous Irish materials in my work.

 Kilkenny Marble Earrings             Cork Red Marble Earrings

(these earrings sold, but you can watch Handmade by Amo'r on Etsy for other designs)

Forward Spring

 Teal beach glass pendant 'Ocean Flora'

 The Spring weather has been a little erratic here in Ireland of late. Last week an unexpected burst of sunshine saw us wiping the dust off our sunglasses and flinging on the sandals. Every Irish man and woman knows to grab those rays no matter how weak or fleeting as it might be the only look at the sun we get all year.  But it's back to cold reality this week with plummeting temperatures and even reported snowfalls on higher ground. Come back winter woollies, you're not done yet!

        'Susie'                                                   'Trudi'                      

 

                         

     'Jilly'

With the first hint of Spring, I was inspired to temporarily move away from gemstones and beach glass and create a new line of young, fun and affordable button pendants.  These cutsie pendants were first launched in my shop on the Irish site, Fondelifair and come in a range of bright, pretty colours and designs. As they are so girlie and feminine, I chose to give them all cute girls' names.

 

   'Maddy'                                               'Sally'                                                

 'Tilly'

This week I introduced the pendants to my more established shop on Etsy. The button pedants are fresh and feminine, perfect for your Spring and Summer wardrobe. But I won't tell if you wear yours in winter too!!

I've also been working on new earring designs in Connemara marble. Above is a sneak preview of what is to come very soon.  (Update 5th April; just listed, 'Irish Fairytale' earrings)

Below is work in progress:

One of the most frustrating things about rare Irish marble is the lack of variety in available beads. Luckily, once or twice a year I commission unique pendant shapes to be cut specially for me to work with but no mason is going to make up a small quantity of new bead shapes for me. It's not worth their while. Working on a custom order this past fortnight, I had to find ways to get around this inevitability and a result, ended up a with several new design ideas. As a bonus, I accidentally found tear drop beads that are already drilled the whole way through. Yay! I can't wait to make up some new designs and list them over the next few months.  Watch this space to see how I get on.